Part One: Acadia. Chapter 1-3, Tetagouche to Matapedia, 175km
Firstly, let me introduce Wilson, out new packhorse! This weedy little gingernut has been loaned to us for this journey by our wonderful friends at Tetagouche River Ranch. He was recently a rescue, and is still underweight and lacking some muscle. He also lacks the disposition to be a lesson horse, as he will sometimes pull the meanest faces and try to bite your face off with little warning. That being said, he has incredible endurance, is mostly unflappable, and under that sometimes-snarky face is a gentle soul that just needs a good job and some kindness... Both of which he can be guaranteed of on this trip with us!
Departing Tetagouche was a moving morning for us. It's a significant day, the start of a trip, and there was also some extra rushing around as we packed everything up properly for the first time. But Raven's farewell smoking ceremony helped calm me down, and we rode out with the honour guard of the whole family, who escorted us up a back road to a large section of snow pack - where they promptly left us to fend for ourselves! 😂 Probably only two Australians could have found this 300m stretch of icy snow challenging, but when we emerged on the other side, it was as though we'd climbed the Rockies! From there is was calm riding through snowy woods along forest roads, with no more major snowpack encounters to contend with! There was however very little grass - luckily for us, our trail angels swept down and dropped us off some hay for our first night. The next day was similar but without hay, and then we had the Day Three Disaster. All three horses spooked at a black trash can in the woods and bolted. Ella and I both feel off (inglorious to admit, but true). Ella was quite hurt, so I set off to find the horses... 1.5hrs later I did find two of them, Jack and Fredo, walking slowly back up to road towards camp. I felt so relieved as I called out to them, fully expecting them to turn around and trot up to me... But instead they turned, looked at me, and promptly started jogging up the road away from me! The following two hours were some of the most embarassing and frustrating of my life, as every time I got close they would run off again... Eventually I caught up to them at last night's camp, and finally, with the help of our heroes Mike and Leslie, we were all reunited as a team - Wilson having taken a different turning to the other two, independent thinker that he is!
When we were able to regroup at the warm hospitality of the conveniently located Island Lake Club, we realised that Jack was also somewhat lame, and he and Ella would need some rest before being able to continue. So again our trail angels at Tetagouche came to rescue and arranged a pick up for our injured comrades. It was a sad evening waving them off, but knowing they would be well looked after was the main consideration.
Farewelling Ella and Jack, myself, Fredo and Wilson had a long day in the woods, made lively by seeing three moose, one beaver and some VERY fresh bear tracks. We had a lovely camp that even had some grass, and then pushed on to Balmoral the next day. Word had got around that we were on our way, and we have been blown away by the generosity and kindness shown to us every day by the people we have met along the way. From the kindly folks at the Bois-Joli municipal building who helped us find a place to stay in Balmoral, to the kind people who have hosted myself and the horses every night since, it is so wonderful to see community in action and kindness offered to strangers. Every day I probably talk to 20+ people who stop on the side of the road or come out of their houses to say hello and wish us well. We wandered along through Balmoral, down through Glen Coe, Flatlands and across the bridge to Matapedia - Yes that's right, we made it to Quebec!
It's been a steep learning curve for me, getting to know the horses better and beginning to hopefully build some of that trust that is the foundation to a good relationship with horses. Wilson has been a star, strolling along with few complaints, and as I get to know his quirks a bit better, I think we're gonna get on just fine ☺️ Fredo, it turns out, is actually quite timid under saddle - I don't think she's ever much been the lead horse before. She's relatively confident on forest roads, but was very jumpy and reluctant on the more busy roads, so I've been doing more walking than expected as I help her to develop her confidence. I have no doubt she'll soon be stepping out bravely!
Some of you may be wondering about Acadia. The history of this area is fascinating, and it has been a common greeting to hear "Francais ou Anglais?" as people come up to say hello. This part of New Brunswick is mostly bi-lingual, and the story of the language in this region is the story of Acadia. Please forgive me if I get this wrong, but as a general idea: Historically speaking, Acadia was one of five regions of New France back in the 17th century, extending through the Maritimes and into Maine, an unique French-speaking area that developed it's own culture and administration. Fast forward to 1755-1764 and ongoing tensions between France and Britain led to the forced removal of many Acadians after the British feared they would side with France. Some managed to escape deportion; many where sent back to Europe and some to the American south (incidentally, the word "Cajun" comes from "Acadian"). As conflict died down, Acadians who had escaped were able to maintain some independence and culture throughout the decades, and some also returned from exile. Today in New Brunswick, Acadian identity lives on in culture, customs, and a history of bi-lingualism, as francophone and anglophone communities exist within mere kilometres of each other. And in my personal experience, a hospitality, generosity and kindness that has blown me away time and time again.
Biggest thanks of course to our trail angels at Tetagouche River Ranch, the lovely folks at Island Lake Club, the legends who collected Ella and Jack, and of course to Armeline and Charles at Balmoy, Matthew and Danica at Levesque farm, and Danielle for treating us so well and welcoming me into your homes ☺️
Onwards into Quebec!